September 9, 2019 at 5:48 pm #14653Marta BiondaParticipant
I made some experiments. At the beginning I had a lot of troubles with the test prints, almost all failed. One day I tried to print 2 head and it simply worked.
I did some strange thing with the cape, in Fig 1 is how I cutted and keyed it.
Anycubic Photon with Anycubic Yellow transparent resin.
All prints have:
Normal exposure: 10 sec.
Off Time: 3 sec
Bottom exposure: 1000 sec
Bottom layers: 8 sec
Usually I start with LIGHT Supports 10-20%, than manually I add few Heavy and Medium manually, especially in the lowest part of the model and in the resto of the model.
My idea is that small supports help to build the model (leaving just small signs), instead big support should help to not to fall in the vat (leaving few big marks).
I started with 2 heads in slight different angles. In the first I used especially light supports, in the second medium supports.
They were both printed but the one with light supports had a failure in the back, the other one had some lines and cracks on the turban (never happened a thing like this).
MOST OF THE BODY (fig3)
I printed most part of the body with the same setting and using especially light supports, they all seem printed well (fig3). Keys seem good too.
Last print was the legs. I put 2 model in the same position and slighty differents supports. One failed, the other has some lines like the turban.
After the body I printed the cape and almost it wasn’t recognizable. A layer almost didn’t stuck so i wonder if I have to increas the exposure to 12 sec.
Never happened that a piece has holes like these(fig5).
1 – I wonder if cut the cape in half, anf if so if is better a straght line (lika A) or a curve line (like B); I wonder if cut the top of the cape too, maybe like in the line C (fig6).
2 – I wonder if increase the exposure to 12 seconds will help to prevent some failure. Maybe supports will be stronger? I will lost details?
3 – I’m thining to print the head in a more vertical position to avoid the layering visible in the fig2 on his face.
4 – Is possible to sand (with the sandpaper) small pieces like some regions of the face (for exemple the eye that shows the layering effect)? (fig2)
5 – Do materials like Magic Sculpt (Greenstuff,Milliput) stuck to this resins or I must to use some glue?
6 – What kind of glue does works with these kind of resins?
Sorry for the long post!
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.September 9, 2019 at 5:50 pm #14658Marta BiondaParticipant
Here are the other figures.
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.September 17, 2019 at 2:06 am #15025Eric AskueInstructor
I’m looking over this, and let us go over the cape.
1) role the cape onto its side and maintain a 50-degree angle.
2) the cape is very thin for its size, I would double the thickness of the cape through the draped area (not in the shoulders).
3) choosing very thin or small supports is very risky since you can’t be entirely sure you’ll have a successful print. It isn’t how I personally like to do things.
Almost all of the issues I’m seeing and hearing in your post are coming from your supports not being robust enough. I’ve checked with both of my partners and they agree that this is a bad practice and the cause of most of the issues with faild prints in the 3D printing community.
Glue Abs glue or gell crazy glue works fine. However, I like “Epoxy sculpt” (made by Avis) since you can smooth it with water while it is still malleable.
You can also get sanding sticks, pads and fingertips for finishing your post-processing.
I hope this helps.
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